Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #353


Bunnahabhain Darach Ur
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky
46.3% abv

£33


Hi. Long time no see.

I know I promised a "week" of Islay whiskies and while these few past and few forthcoming posts are all Islay malts, they certainly have not been posted over a week. I want to get Dr. Whisky up to frequency he once had, I really do. Any tips? Advice? Serge, how the hell do you do it? I bow in the presence of all new whisky bloggers (Whisky for Everyone, Cask Strength, Edinburgh Whisky Blog, and many others) who in one way or the other followed in my footsteps/appeared in my wake but have proceeded leaps and bounds beyond what I am currently doing. Keep it up, lads; the world needs independent voices preaching the gospel of whisky. And your presence makes me feel less guilty for considering money-generating options to motivate increased activity on Dr. Whisky...

This duty free bottling of Bunnahabhain takes its name from the gaelic term DARACH UR, "oak new" and I couldn't find any good pics to steal online.

Duty Free-only bottlings are an increasingly popular item for distillers as they allow for a global reach of a single product without needing a huge production. I saw a few fun bottlings at the duty free when in the UK last week and I look forward to travelling to Scotland in July and rekindling my affinity for smuggling bottles overseas.

TASTING NOTES:

Heavy, damp, weighty aromas. Morning breath, browned slices of apples after too much exposure to air, prunes, honey, and dried spilled Strongbow.

Rich and sweet, woody and raisiny with a blast of toasty oak and vanilla. Nice full bodied flavour with a little lime and then maple syrup as it slowly erodes into a sweeter, gentler finish.

SUMMARY:

Organic, earthy, and slightly off-putting on the nose. Full bodied and sweet on the palate with a real emphasis on tannic influence. A wholly unique Bunnahabhain and not one to be ignored.

Malt Mission #351
Malt Mission #352

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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #352


Bunnahabhain 1997 10yo
"Heavily Peated", cask 5366
Signatory Vintage
Islay Single Malt Whisky
60% abv


The peaty spirit being produced at Bunnahabhain (boonahawvin) is called "moines" and the contents of this puppy are of that variety. Some have hypothesised that some of the no-age statement peaty/islay brands on the market with mystery contents are actually some of this peaty Bunnahabhain. Very possible, Watson.

For more distillery info or to see all Bunnahabhains had on the mission, click HERE.

This was a wedding gift from BK. Thank you, you lovely Japanadian, bass-playing goalie.

TASTING NOTES:

Cranberries, plums, soil and salt. Faint eggy notes with gummy bears, sour cherries, and a general fruitiness that is quite appealing.

Cigarette butts and Halls lozenges, brownies, burnt crispy bits of cheese under the broiler, custard, raisins, and a puff of exhaust. Lengthy finish of sweet sherry and tarry smoke.

SUMMARY:

If you have been narrow minded enough to call Bunnahabhain the boring Islay malt, then it is about time you revisit it. Not that this is outstandingly delicious whisky, but it is outstandingly stand-out-ish. And those who like 'em down and dirty will drool over this sold out gem.

Malt Mission #351
Malt Mission #353

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Thursday, May 07, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #351


Islay Mist
Blended Scotch Whisky

40% abv

£16

$22 (USD)


Here begins a string of Islay whiskies to be tasted here on the malt mission and as "good cheap whisky" (and variations) is currently the most popular search bringing folks to Dr. Whisky, I figured I would start with a good, cheap whisky.

I sat at my laptop for a stretch of time this afternoon just looking over blogs and e-publications' responses to whisky events and/or tastings I have done for work in the past few months. Thank you all for you kind words and support of our family company.

Then, as I sat at a friend's book reading thinking, "I am laughing, I am feeling his words, I understand what he is saying", it occurred to me that as genius as I thought his short story was, I will not remember it accurately nor will I ever really KNOW what he was saying.

This impasse, I thought, is similar to that which lies between me presenting a Scotch 101/5-dram tasting and some blogger/writer/journalist/podcaster/chef attendee later responding to it with lines like "the peatiest barrels are the sherry ones" and "Japanese Scotch is increasingly popular." I did not directly convey these fallacies but I have no doubt that the attendee heard them.

Then I thought, if I feel this communication breakdown THERE then it must exist HERE, between what I have been taught/told/shown/tasted and what I know/think/observe/opine.

So a few minutes ago I pointed and clicked through a few whisky websites in my browser and realised/reaffirmed/noted that all these representations are spoiled by our pea-brained human influence that 100 Ian Buxtons, a vibrant Whiskypedia, and a reborn Michael Jackson could never remedy.

And then, just two seconds ago I sipped a single cask Bunnahabhain (thank you, BK) and thought of .... nothing

And I understood.

Islay Mist from MacDuff International is comprised of Laphroaig, some Speyside and Highland malts whiskies, along with some grain whisky. I used to buy a lot of this when I lived in Edinburgh.

TASTING NOTES:

Seaweed and key lime pie. Shortbread, shaving cream, and salt water. Good grain presence, too, adding backbone.

Malty, smoky, salty like black olives, luscious vanilla sweetness pressed hard against peat smoke.

SUMMARY:

Could drink this in large, satisfying sips. Very well constructed. The good malt presence adds a chewiness and depth that along with the clear medicinal Islay influence makes this a really satisfying dram with a distinct peaty tang. Great value for that Islay urge.

Malt Mission #350

Malt Mission #352
Malt Mission #353

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Saturday, May 02, 2009

Spirit of Toronto 2009

Spirit of Toronto 2009
Last year around this time I told you about "a whisky lover's dream," The Spirit of Toronto.

This is a celebration of the water of life (whisky, whiskey, scotch whisky, and congnac) with over 100 drops to try, dozens of exhibitors, live jazz, a killer cocktail bar, a cigar lounge (outside), and ten truly excellent masterclasses, including local maverick John Hall leading folks through creations from Forty Creek, Dave Broom taking whisky lovers to some silent stills/closed distilleries, Mike Nicolson relaying his stories from the ten+ distilleries he worked at while sharing drops from a handful, and many more.

Spirit of Toronto
Friday May 8, 2009

6:30-10:30pm
Roy Thompson Hall
$115(advance)/$145(door)

Yes, ticket prices have gone up by ten bucks both advance and at the d
oor this year, but the event is worth every penny in that it allows the subjects of Totalitario to enjoy spirits of their choosing without coupon-per-serving systems used by other festivals, perhaps proving that the citizen CAN control their liquor intake and perhaps do not need the state to interfere in selecting what they can and cannot drink.

It will no doubt be a great event and the only thing of its kind in 2009.

Attend. Enjoy. Say "hi".

Friday, May 01, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #350

Glenmorangie Signet
Glenmorangie Signet
Highland Single Malt Whisky

46% abv

£115
$185 (USD)


In the autumn of 2008, it was hard to be in any whisky nerd conversation, geeky whisky forum, or read whisky magazines without coming across the buzz around Glenmorangie Signet.

Designed by Dr. Bill Lumsden over the past decade, Signet is made with spirit that included some roasted and chocolate barley (refers to the toasting level, not actual chocolate) vatted with mature Gelnmorangie of older vintages. More details of the recipe and cask selection at Whisky Pages. Its name is inspired by the 8th century pict logo on the Cadbol Stone found on distillery property and the packaging is absolutely stunning, in my opinion. Good post on the stone and the whisky at WhiskyViking.

Hearing Dr. Bill talk about the Signet is quite an experience as his excitement for the spirit goes beyond that of a biochemist proud of his test results into the realm of a mad whisky scientist enthusiastically celebrating a successful experiment, in his words, "one of our greatest and most complex creations to date."

I remember drinking this on a boat on the Hudson River, under stars and memorial bars of light from the site of the twin towers, among people relaying stories of where they were that tragic day in September. An inspiring moment with an inspiring dram.

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE. Cheers for the drop, DB.


TASTING NOTES:

Intimidatingly complex. Rye (the grain, not the spirit), almond oil, pepper, face cream, Japanese seaweed crackers, vintage clothing shops, cocoa powder, kiwi, 3 Musketeers, black bean sauce, pecan pie... I could go on. And will on my own time. Incredibly un-Scotch-y, in a way. I could be convinced that this is some new creation from John Hall's Forty Creek.

Toasty and malty with a complex and punchy array of coffee, mint chocolate, kidney beans, raspberries, pecans, crepes, maple, and more. Gorgeous nutty finish with the balance of oak influences reaching for heaven.

SUMMARY:

Un-traditional, or perhaps more accurately atypical, whisky in every sense and to every sense, and quite exhilarating as a result. A drop of water sweetens the nose but really collapses the delivery on the palate, although it unpacks the tight package of flavour in a most pleasing way.

"Unlike anything released before," reads the press release, and the grand statement is completely true. I have also read Signet referred to as "the dark side of Glenmorangie." Also true. But more than just an impressive whisky, this release is monumental in that it takes our perception of Glenmorangie from Scotland's Favourite Malt Whisky to One of the World's Greatest Malt Whiskies, a key step in markets like Singapore, where this whisky was initially launched, and world-wide. Perfect balance of wise marketing and wonderful whisky-making. If only I could afford a bottle. I imagine the packaging alone, as gorgeous as it is, would put a dent in my wallet... literally; the stopper is even heavier than Dewar's Signature.

Malt Mission #346
Malt Mission #347
Malt Mission #348
Malt Mission #349

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #349

Glenmorangie Sonnalta
Glenmorangie Sonnalta
Highland Single Malt Whisky

46% abv
£50

$70 (USD)

You know when you come home and feel like enjoying a whisky but can't find one on your shelf that you fancy? Well this can happen no matter how vast your selection is and it is a phenomenon that blows my little whisky-soaked mind but completely puzzles friends and family. 4, 10, 40, 400 bottles and not a drop to drink. When you get this feeling, I officially welcome you to geek country.

At the beginning of 2009, Glenmorangie announced a new line of "private expressions" to be released. Glenmorangie Sonnalta (meaning "generous") is the first of the series and is only available at selected Duty Free.

For more distillery info and to see all Glenmorangies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Fruity and light in spite of the often weighty influence of Pedro Ximenez casks. Beachy, with the aromas of suntan lotion (coconut, jojoba) and sea air. Chocolate covered raisins, banana chips, apple cider and dessert wine are also wound up with the beautiful Glenmorangie vanilla notes.

Big and initially oily on the palate with cinnamon, pears and apples, with hints of mint and salt as well. Dries out and gets your mouth ready for another sip through a finish of flan and oak. Very appetizing and very quaffable.

SUMMARY:

Light but rich, full but restrained, spicy but wonderfully sweet. An aperitif style sherried malt if ever there was one, but equally well-suited for enjoying al fresco with dessert. How seasonally appropriate...

Malt Mission #346
Malt Mission #347
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Malt Mission #350

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #348

Glenmorangie Astar
Glemorangie Astar
Highland Single Malt Whisky

57.1% abv
£52
$80 (USD)

Nearly a month since my last post making me the real April Fool. Thanks for your emails and comments of inquiry, concern, and encouragement. The good news is I have been trying some excellent stuff in recent weeks, but the bad news is I have had less and less time to post them on the Malt Mission. So here come three new drops from Glenmorangie. Let's see if I can do it in three days...

Some of you may remember the 2005 (?) Glenmorangie Artisan Cask, a 500ml bottle of Glenmo matured in slow-growth, air seasoned oak from the Ozark mountains. It was a toasty, creamy, vanilla-soaked fruitbowl of a whisky that was loved by those lucky enough to try it.

Launched in late 2008 in the UK and available in the USA in early 2009, The Astar takes its name from the gaelic for "journey", referencing the decade plus experiment with Missouri "designer oak" by Dr. Bill Lumsden, the visionary whisky creator behind Glenmorangie.

For all Glenmorangie had on the mission, click HERE. Tasted with ISM, and his notes appear in quotes.

TASTING NOTES:

Wonderfully fruity, if slightly acetone, with "grapes and pears and fuckloads of them." Baked goods like buttertarts. Spicy with ginger and pepper, sweetened with butterscotch, and toasted with peanuts... and lager.

Sweet, creamy vanilla with more of the pepper but some salty tang as well. Slight skunky notes like some European beers and even bitter near the end at full strength. Leathery books, paper, and tarte tatin.

SUMMARY:

Inder let out a wheeze upon sipping it so I think it is worth noting that this is bottled at cask strength. The nose is gorgeous with all the best elements of quality american oak cask maturation, if having a few hints of youth in the acetone, nailpolish elements noted. Flavourwise, water gets rid of a bitter/acrid flavour that was present at full strength. Unfortunately, the skunky element remains and there simply is no amount of water one can add to mask it. Nonetheless, this liquid is proof that tough, macho whisky can be made without peat or sherry casks. Go try it! I would love to hear your thoughts as I am to date the only person I know who has tried this and not been 100% blown away.

Malt Mission #346
Malt Mission #347
Malt Mission #349
Malt Mission #350

Wednesday, April 01, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #347


Glenavon
Special Liqueur Whisky
40% abv
₤14,850
$25,000

Sold at auction in November of 2006 and subject to much scientific and historical scrutiny to test its authenticity, this is believed to be the oldest bottle of scotch whisky in the world.

I was fortunate enough to sit down with the anonymous buyer who won this at Bonham's for ₤14850/$25,000 USD and after a passionate discussion about the cultural history of the New York rat she insisted that "we do a shot of some scotch." I thought, as long as it's not Aldunie, I am in!

She poured this amber nectar from a nasty old bottle that smelled like the yellowed pages of a first edition of Charles Darwin's Origins of the Species (1859) found in the bottom of a shoe and I asked her, "How old is this? Where is it from?" Her answer was as seductive as it was simple, "who gives a shit?" she said.

So I called Charlie Maclean [+44 (0) 773 808 8008], the worlds #1 authority whisky historian and bassist in Motorhead (1979-83). So Chuck, from what distillery does this drop come? He answered, "It has been suggested that Glenavon and Denalbo were one and it the same. What is certain is that the Smiths closed Denalbo in 1858 and in the following year they consolidated all their distilleries - including Denalbo/Glenavon - at Minmore, the site of the present Glenlivet distillery." You lost me, mate.

For all 150 year old whiskies had on the mission, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Opens with a burst of bad breath, ash, and porno music. Hints of slaveholders' guilt emerge with time and there are whiffs of abolitionism, even allusions to Uncle Tom's Cabin with deep nosings. With water, the whisky begins to smell like post-asparagus urine and the labs of Benjiman "Silly" Silliman.

Explodes on the palate like blood from the fields of Bleeding Kansas, with gentle nuances of paint, paint thinner, and College Pro Painters. Notes of Bessemer processed steel and Newman's Own Three Cheese Balsamic Vinaigrette are unleashed with a touch of water while the finish brings us opium, a touch of Huckleberry Finn's father's racist pride and a lingering note of Tom Sawyer's pathetic pussy-footed admiration of his mate, Huck.

SUMMARY:

Old, smelly, and lacking enough literary references to really be called "whisky" at all. The liqueur in the name of this drop is its only redeeming feature as I would much rather lick 'er than drink 'er.

Malt Mission #346
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Monday, March 30, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #346


Grant's 12yo
Blended Scotch Whisky

40% abv
£15
$24 (USD)

WhiskyLIVE NYC is tonight (Monday March 30, 2009) at Pier Sixty, Chelsea Piers (23rd at the Hudson River). See you there?

Another blend from the Grant family and the industry's longest serving and most highly awarded Master Ble
nder, David Stewart. Most recently he was awarded a Lifetime Achievement Award from Whisky Magazine's Icons of Whisky 2009 for his 46 years with family distillers William Grant and Sons, where he was responsible for leading the team that won three consecutive Distiller of the Year awards for his work with Glenfiddich, The Balvenie, and Grant's blended whiskies.

An apprentice at the distillery for twelve (12!) years, David has always taken his responsibility very seriously, but that has never hindered his creativity. Always the innovator, David is a pioneer being the first to mature a whisky in two successive woods (essentially commericalising 'finishing') with The Balvenie Classic and its contemporary version, The Balevnie 12yo DoubleWood, using the Solera vatting system for Glenfiddich 15yo, and for using rum casks to mature single malt (Glenfiddich 21yo and The Balvenie 17yo Rum Cask). Now, Brian Kinsman(see pic, the guy on the left), David's apprenctice of nearly a decade, prepares to take the reigns, but there are no signs that David is in a rush to go anywhere and will certainly have his modest and talented hands at work with William Grant & Sons for many years to come.


The Grant's website says that this bottling is finished in "virgin bourbon casks" which is confusing because a virgin cask would imply that it was "new wood" and a bourbon cask would imply that it already held bourbon. So, what's going on? Whatever the story, this whisky won a World Whisky Award for Best Blended Whisky (12yo and under) last year and is part of the line that has undergone a slick repack/redesign without losing any of the trademark design features (crest label, "Stand Fast", or bottle shape)

Challenging to get pricing in pounds sterling or US dollars because this puppy is not sold in either market. Yet.

For all Grant's had on the mission and for more blend history, click HERE.

TASTING NOTES:

Grainy and sweet, big vanilla, almond butter, and stewed carrots. Pistachio nuts, salt, and honey mix in an unresolved union.

Wow, quite smoky and nutty off the top. Sherry sweetness makes a brief appearance with some plums and raisins and then oak and smoke round off the experience. Great movement. Long and smoky finish.

SUMMARY:

A whisky for drinking rather than nosing. And boy, did I not expect the smoke on the palate. But I was quite pleased by it and need to try this on the rocks. Tonight maybe? Okay.


Malt Mission #345
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Thursday, March 26, 2009

Malt Mission 2009 #345

George T. Stagg whiskey
George T. Stagg

2007 edition

Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

72.4% abv
$65

£120

Since being launched in 2002 as a part of Buffalo Trace's "Antique Collection", George T. Stagg has made quite a reputation for itself among boozehounds worldwide. High proof, well-aged, and rare, the stuff cannot be sipped and forgotten; it makes an impression.

Awarded Best American Whiskey in the World at the 2008 World Whisky Awards and a great way to end our "week" of American whiskeys here on the Malt Mission.

Each release is usually around 15 years old and this drop was distilled in 1992. George T. Stagg whiskey is named after the man who was responsible for building the distillery that is known today as Buffalo Trace, a name taken from the tale that the distillery itself sits upon an ancient meandering trail of migrating buffalo.

For all American whiskey had on the mission, click HERE. To see what another whisky nerd I love reading said about it, click HERE.

Tasted with GS. Thanks for the drops, brother. Now go put Aurora to bed.

TASTING NOTES:

Rich and nougaty, baklava and Honey Nut Cheerios. Maple, that red chinese dipping sauce, gingerbread, fudge, and sourdough.

Strong, but sippable. Invigorating. Chewy. Buttery, chillied, and miraculously warming. Cucumber skin freshness but weighted with butterscotch and applesauce, boozy boozy applesauce. Water is not absolutely necessary (believe it or not), but WOW does it unleash berries, syrup, and a gorgeous oaky creaminess left only in the best American oak casks.

SUMMARY:

I wanted more with every sip, and refilled my glass several times. Truly riveting like a well-made action movie seen in the cinema... however you really need to be in the mood for this kind of movie.

Malt Mission #341
Malt Mission #342

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